My friend John asked me to come over and help him with some crown molding he was getting ready to put up in his new family room. He had some beautiful poplar boards milled to match the trim in the rest of his house, and while I would have opted for a stain to highlight the wavy grain, John and Becky (mostly Becky) wanted it painted. &#;Happy wife, happy life.&#; So, paint it was.
When I arrived, John had the boards laid out on sawhorses in his garage, with newspapers spread out to protect the floor. But then he handed me a two-inch wide foam brush. &#;John,&#; I said, &#;Haven&#;t you heard? The better the brush, the better the finish.&#;
Which launched us into a discussion of how to choose the right brush for each project. Some of John and Becky&#;s trim was going to be stained and sealed with a clear finish, which gave me a chance (while we were working) to explain to John how to pick the best brush when you are staining and finishing. Take a look and see what John learned.
Why Does It Matter?
As I explained to John, a brush is a means of transporting a stain or finish from the can to the wood. When applying the stain, you can use either a rag or a brush. I prefer a brush, as it works better for getting stain into into corners and carvings, but you don&#;t have to use an expensive one or, for that matter, being excessively neat. That&#;s because your next step will be to wipe off any excess stain, so your rag will erase any brush marks, runs, drips or bristles left by your brush.
When laying down a smooth coat of clear finish, however, the brush will have a major impact on how it looks when it dries. That&#;s when picking the right brush really becomes important. And as I said to John, &#;You wouldn&#;t use a sledgehammer to drive in a finish nail, so why use a foam brush to try to lay down a smooth coat of finish?&#;
Foam Brushes.
I must admit, I do occasionally use foam brushes when staining a small project. Their greatest selling point is they are inexpensive.
But when it comes to applying a smooth coat of clear finish, such as polyurethane, a foam brush is not my first choice. Instead of bristles, it has a blade. The blunt sides leave two parallel ridges of finish, like a snowplow on the highway. Also, the foam head contains air, which can leave bubbles in your finish.
And if you use it for very long, the foam head begins to wear out and get floppy. It will even start to dissolve as you are brushing on stains and finishes containing mineral spirits or lacquer thinner.
Oil-Based Stains and Finishes.
Oil-based products contain mineral spirits, and for them I reach for a natural bristle brush.
For oil-based stains I use a Minwax® Wood Finish&#; Stain Brush. These brushes are designed to carry a lot of stain from the can to your project, and hold up much better than foam brushes.
And unlike foam brushes, these natural bristles brushes can be cleaned with ordinary mineral spirits (paint thinner) and re-used indefinitely.
Much better than tossing dozens of foam brushes a year into the garbage can!
Water-Based Stains and Finishes.
Unlike mineral spirits, water causes natural bristles to swell. As they do, they loose their shape. Rather than use a natural bristle brush with water-based stains and clear finishes and watch it swell out of shape (top brush), I use a synthetic bristle brush, such as Minwax® Polycrylic® Brush (bottom brush). These bristles won&#;t absorb water and won&#;t lose their shape.
And clean-up is a breeze with soap and water.
Quick Tip: After cleaning, wrap the damp bristles in a paper towel, then secure with a rubber band. Once the bristles are dry, slip your brush back into its cardboard sleeve to maintain their shape.
Use the hole in the end of the handle to hang your brush to dry with the bristles pointing down, letting any remnants of stain or finish escape before hardening.
For more information, please visit FUYI BRUSH.
Good, Better, Best.
As I told John, not all brushes are created equal. They can range in price from less than a dollar to more than twenty dollars. You can spot the difference in three areas: the handle, the bristles, and the ferrel, which holds the bristles to the handle.
Handle &#; If you used a brush every day to make a living, you would want a contoured handle. Most of us are perfectly content with a standard handle that costs less to make.
Ferrel &#; Check the metal band holding the bristles to the handle to make sure it is secure. Tug gently on the bristles to see if the ferrel has a firm grasp on them.
Bristles &#; These should be soft and pliable.
In this photo, the foam brush at the top rates a &#;Good,&#; the bristle brush in the middle is a &#;Better,&#; and the professional brush at the bottom rates a &#;Best.&#;
It Takes All Three.
Just as you have different sizes and types of screwdrivers in your workshop, odds are you will need all three types of brushes: foam, natural bristle, and synthetic bristle. You will also want to have them in different widths to fit the different size of cans of stains and clear finishes. The best time to buy them is before you need them, so pick out a selection of types and sizes, store them in a drawer to keep the dirt and dust off them, and clean them after each use. The reward for your efforts will be a stain and a finish that is as smooth as any professional could have achieved.
Good Luck!
Bruce
I have searched, but am unable to find an answer to this question.
Here&#;s what I&#;ve currently been doing with my brushes: if I have an errand or something else to do that interrupts my painting, I swish them around in some walnut oil, give them a cursory wipe, and then when I return, start using them again (after more fully cleaning them with walnut oil as needed).
This seems to make sense, since the oil should deter the drying of any residual paint on the brushes until I&#;m able to return to use them again, or clean them at the end of the day. I thought I had read of this practice someplace a long time ago (&#;here at WC? &#;in a book?) as being of no harm to ones brushes. But I&#;m not certain, so I thought I&#;d put the question to the folks here.
I have a few other brush-related questions too.
To clean my brushes at night, I first wipe them thoroughly and give them a preliminary cleaning by swishing them around in a silicoil cleaner filled with walnut oil. Then, I rub them across a bar of lava soap and rinse, repeating the process until no more paint shows up on the soap. But what I&#;m wondering is, how aggressively should one rub the brush into the bar of soap. I&#;ve been pretty thorough; I really scrub the brush into the bar, but I wonder if that may prematurely age my brushes. I don&#;t want my diligence in trying to protect my materials to work against me. Any thoughts?
And then, what about that Lava soap bar? It does have pumice in it, but it doesn&#;t feel much different than The Master&#;s Brush Cleaner, and it&#;s a whole lot cheaper. The only difference is that the Master&#;s product says it has conditioners.
Finally, a painter whose work I admire told me she uses W&N Monarchs. They&#;re a synthetic mongoose, which is a little softer than bristle, but firmer than sable or synthetic sable. That sounds intriguing, but even those are a little too pricey for me right now. Is there a reasonable alternative that anyone could recommend?
TIA!
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