Thinking about insulation? Take a whole house approach to insulation. When contacting insulation companies for multiple quotes, homeowners often have done some research. If the research is misleading or not applicable to their structure, they can make the mistake of paying for an insulation treatment which yields little to no benefit. These 10 questions about insulation are in addition to the obvious top 10 you find on google such as:
1. How can you help me identify moisture transfer, and is there a moisture issue creating a food source for mold?
2. How can you help me identify air transfer which is making the home drafty and making some rooms colder than others in winter and hotter in summer?
3. What are the existing types of ventilation, and how are they calculated?
4. What gaps in the pressure barrier ( building envelope) exist at present and what action can be taken to seal them?
5. Type of existing insulation, please identify the R-Value and Material?
6. Pros and cons of adding new over existing insulation?
7. Did you find or attempt to locate any entry points of critters, birds, bugs etc?
8. Did you identify and provide a solution for multiple air escape paths / routes?
9. What areas for improvement need to be completed by me the homeowner that your company does not provide paid services for?
10. Cost comparisons of different insulation materials and breakdown of costs and breakdown of sq ft treatment ?
Make sure to ask for bids to be submitted (in writing) with the following:
Ask the insulation contractors things like:
Tackling Air Leakage : Making your home cooler in summer and warmer in winter while lowering gas and electric bills.
Green Attic Insulation can insulation over the attic floor or between stud cavities of walls, but insulation cannot solve air flow. It can only prevent heat escape. Let that dominate the conversation through the remaining information.
Insulation and Air Leakage – Unintentional or Accidental Air Movement – Ask your insulator about air leakage.
Often referred to as draftiness, unintentional and accidental air movement account for a host of undesirable conditions, which can be treated and resolved. Green Attic Insulation has offered comprehensive whole house approach energy audits for many years now.
In the process our our years of case studies, we have compiled valuable information on the variables of creating a comfortable home. Some simple and affordable fixes, where the treatment plan would be similar for most homes on the block, and complex and seemingly insurmountable problems which took thermal and blower door testing. This being said, we are careful not to place a percentage on energy bill reduction without achieving meaningful improvements to strengthen the air barrier. Air sealing will stop air infiltration.
What do you absolutely need to know by the time you finish reading this? A stable, healthy, consistent, comfortable , and conditioned living space is the goal. Treatment of the air flow, heat flow, and moisture flow through the conditioned space are the clear objectives. Each of these three have a considerably different treatment application; however, some treatments may overlap reducing the movement of one while directly targeting another.
It is essential to break down these three types of movement into their own conversations and separate the diagnosis and treatment of each. This is a separate but equal conversation when discussing insulation.
Starting with Air Flow. Also referred to as the “pressure barrier” of the structure, air flow ( unintentional / unwanted air flow ) through the conditioned living space is the cause of over-running the furnace in the winter and cooling system in the summer.
Air Movement / Air Infiltration Methods Whole house approach identifying methods of Air Exchange ( per hour)
Insulation and Wind Effect – Think the flag in the yard blowing in the wind. Ask your insulator about wind effect.
Wind / Breeze creates a positive pressure on the windward face and negative pressure on the non-windward facing walls, which pulls the air out of the building. Wind causes infiltration on one side of a building and exfiltration on the other. Wind effects can vary by surrounding terrain, shrubs, and trees.
The most effective treatment would be a continuous air barrier around the entire exterior of the home. This is not achieved with more insulation between stud and drywall cavity.
We find the most vulnerable point of the structure is the seam between the foundation and siding. This can be achieved with exterior caulking or one part spray foam ( depending on the size of the gap and the aesthetics of the building material.
The untreated seams at the foundation level will result in cold first floors around the parameter of the home and cause substantially higher heating costs as cold air is being drawn in through breaks in the pressure barrier.
Wind defense is often overlooked due to seasonal restrictions. For example, the caulking around the window, doors, facia, and any other seams of the external structure cannot be done when the temps are below 40 Degrees per manufacturer recommendations for adhesion and proper curing.
So if a contractor meant to schedule the air sealing of the exterior and spring and never got around to returning, the homeowner ( while the home is new and beautiful) has a major air leakage problem, and resulting higher cooling and heating costs for many years to come.
Insulation and Stack Effect -Think Lava Lamp or Coffee Mug – Insulation ,the mug material, the lid is the ceiling.
The “stack effect” is warmer air moving upward in a structure. This happens in summer and winter, but is most pronounced in the winter because indoor-outdoor temperature differences are the greater. Warm air rises because it’s lighter than cold air. The rising warm air creates positive pressure above, neutral pressure between, and negative pressure on the lower levels. Reduction in pressure in the base of the building, forcing cold air to infiltrate through open doors, windows, or other openings. The stack effect basically causes air infiltration on the lower portion of a building and exfiltration on the upper part.
Indoor Combustion and Ventilation – Indoor bath fans, dryers, range hoods, etc.
Mechanical ventilation air movement varies by device, and can cause substantial pressure differences. A common bathroom fan generates between 90-110 CFM ( cubit feet per minute , a cubic foot is about a basketball of air) , while a range hood over the stove can draw as much as 1800 CFM. These devices must be balanced with air intake or result in unwanted air flow through the building envelope.
Now having identified three types of air movement / air flow, we can separate treatment of the air leakage by targeting the same corresponding air movement paths. For example, partitions, pathways, and intersections of the exterior to reduce wind movement. In the attic top plates and wall to wall connections are sealed to significantly reduce stack effect. This includes recessed lighting, attic hatch or pulldown stairs. Openings around flues are flashed and fire-caulked to prevent stack effect though flu clearance framing.
Together we can ask better questions, raise energy consumption through heat escape awareness, improve ventilation, create healthier homes and happier families.
I had four attic insulation companies come to my home and greenattic was by far the most professional and thorough with there solution. The sales person David was very helpful in explaining the process. David was also the only sales person that brought a infrared camera heat detector to show me where all my heat loss areas were. The crew that came worked very hard all day and when they finished I was provided with before, during and after pictures so I could see what was done. I had one small issue that was resolved quickly the next day. Great company with great service. Highly recommend Green Attic.
Since we spend most of our time at home, many of us consider it to be the most significant lifelong investment. At home, we relax, learn, grow, and make wonderful memories with our loved ones and friends. As a result, anytime we think about making significant improvements to improve our homes, we always conduct thorough research and pose numerous questions before making a decision.
However, even in the event of considering Spray foam Loft Insulation to insulate the loft area, several questions surrounding the outcomes, functionality, and cost of the product still need to be resolved.
The purpose of this post is to provide knowledgeable responses to the top 5 queries that potential clients ask before choosing to insulate their lofts and roofs.
1. What type of insulation is best suited for my loft/roof?
Insulating your loft or roof should be done with materials that are both efficient and durable. Depending on the type of building, its construction, and the local climate, the best type of insulation can vary.
Some of the most common types of insulation for loft/roof spaces are fibreglass, cellulose, and Rockwool. Fibreglass is the most common and well-known type of insulation and is available in batts or loose-fill. It is created from tiny glass fibres, and is often used in walls and attics.
Cellulose is made from recycled paper and is often treated with fire-retardant chemicals. It is usually installed in loose-fill form and is usually more cost-effective than other types. Rockwool is a man-made mineral fibre insulation that is made from molten rock spun into fine fibres. It is often used in walls and ceilings and is highly effective at controlling heat loss.
In addition to the above materials, there are also spray foam and rigid foam insulations. Spray foam is a spray-on insulation that is used to seal and insulate small or difficult-to-reach areas. Rigid foam insulation is rigid panel insulation that is often used on roofs and walls and is usually made from polystyrene or polyurethane foam.
When choosing the type of insulation for your loft or roof, make sure to consider the R-value of each material. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation. You should also consider the local climate, the type of building, and the type of construction.
2. Does my loft/roof have adequate ventilation?
When considering the ventilation of your loft or roof, it is important to consider the size, shape, and layout of your home or building. Without adequate ventilation, heat and moisture can build up and cause serious problems such as mold and mildew growth, increased energy costs, and poor air quality. Fortunately, there are a few simple things you can do to ensure your loft or roof has adequate ventilation.
First, check that you have the right size and type of vents. Depending on the design of your home, different types of vents may be necessary. For example, if you have a pitched roof, you may need both soffit and ridge vents. If you have a flat roof, you may need a combination of box vents, louvers, and turbine vents.
Second, make sure your vents are open and free of obstructions. If your vents are blocked or clogged, they may not be providing enough ventilation. Be sure to keep all vents clean and clear of debris and check them regularly.
Third, consider adding additional vents or fans if necessary. If your home or building is not properly ventilated, you may need to install additional vents or fans to improve air circulation.
Finally, inspect your attic or roof regularly. Look for signs of water damage, mold, and mildew. If you find any of these, it could be a sign of inadequate ventilation.
By taking the time to check that your loft or roof has adequate ventilation, you can help ensure your home or building is safe, comfortable, and energy efficient.
3. What are the health and safety considerations when insulating my loft/roof?
When insulating your loft or roof, health and safety considerations should always be taken into account. To ensure the safety of yourself and anyone else involved in the insulation process, it is essential that you take the necessary precautions.
First and foremost, you should always wear the appropriate safety equipment, such as gloves and protective eyewear. Additionally, it is important to ensure that the area is well-ventilated and that you are wearing a dust mask to avoid any potential inhalation of airborne particles.
You should also make sure that you are using the appropriate materials for the job. Make sure that the insulation is fire-resistant and does not contain any hazardous chemicals or materials. Additionally, you should also ensure that the insulation is securely attached to the roof/loft.
Ensuring that there is no moisture present in the insulation is also essential. Moisture can cause the insulation to become moldy and can also lead to structural damage to the roof/loft.
When handling insulation, you should also wear long sleeves to avoid any potential skin contact with the material. Additionally, you should make sure to keep the area clean and free of debris to avoid any potential slips or trips.
Finally, you should always be aware of any potential electrical wiring or gas pipes in the vicinity of the insulation, as these can pose a potential hazard.
By taking these health and safety considerations into account, you can help to ensure a safe and successful insulation process.
4. How much insulation do I need to buy?
Insulation is an important component of any home’s construction, as it helps to keep your home warm in the winter and cool in the summer. However, knowing exactly how much insulation you need to buy for your home can be a tricky task.
The first step to determine how much insulation you need is to determine the R-value of your home. R-value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat flow, with a higher R-value indicating better insulation. Different types of insulation have different R-values, so you need to check the specifications of the type of insulation you’re planning on buying to determine the R-value.
Once you know the R-value, you can calculate how much insulation you need to buy. This can be done by measuring the square footage of the area you’re insulating and multiplying it by the R-value. For example, if you’re insulating an area that is 1000 square feet and the insulation you’re buying has an R-value of 10, you’ll need 10,000 square feet of insulation.
It’s important to note that this calculation is based on the R-value of the insulation you’re buying, so you may need to buy more insulation if the R-value is lower than the one you’ve calculated. Additionally, it’s best to buy a bit more insulation than you need, as this will ensure that your home is properly insulated.
5. What type of insulation should I use?
Insulation is an important part of any home’s building envelope and should be chosen carefully to ensure energy efficiency, cost-effectiveness, and environmental friendliness. There are a variety of insulation materials available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Here’s a brief overview of the most popular types of insulation to help you decide which type is right for your home.
Fiberglass Insulation: A common choice for insulating walls, attics, and other areas, fiberglass insulation is made of thin strands of glass spun into a fluffy material. Its R-value is good and it’s one of the least expensive insulation options. The downside to fiberglass insulation is that it can irritate skin and eyes and can be difficult to install properly.
Cellulose Insulation: Cellulose insulation is made from recycled paper fibers, sawdust, and other plant-based materials. Its R-value is not as high as other types of insulation, but it’s also one of the most affordable options. Cellulose insulation is fire-resistant and doesn’t contain any harmful chemicals.
Spray Foam Insulation: Spray foam insulation is applied via a spray gun and expands to fill the area it’s sprayed in. It has a very high R-value, is airtight, and can be used for both walls and attic spaces. The downside to spray foam is that it can be expensive and difficult to install.
Rigid Foam Insulation: Rigid foam insulation is a type of foam board that is used to insulate walls and other areas of the home. It is lightweight and has a high R-value, making it one of the most effective types of insulation. The downside is that it can be more expensive than other insulation types.
Rock Wool Insulation: Rock wool insulation is made from rock fibers and is often used in commercial buildings. It is fire-resistant and has a high R-value, but is also more expensive than other types of insulation.
When it comes to choosing the best type of insulation for your home, it’s important to consider your budget, the climate you live in, and your desired level of energy efficiency. Depending on your needs, any of the above types of insulation can be a great choice for your home.
6. How long will it take to install the insulation?
Installing insulation can be a relatively quick and easy process, depending on the size of the project and the type of insulation you are using. If you are just insulating a small space, such as an attic or crawl space, then it could take one day or less. If you are insulating an entire house, it could take several days or even weeks. The type of insulation you use will also affect the installation time; fiberglass and cellulose insulation take longer to install than spray foam insulation. Loft insulation installers may also be able to complete the job more quickly than a DIYer.
7. What are the expected energy savings from insulating my loft/roof?
Insulating your loft/roof is one of the best ways to save energy and reduce your energy bills. The type and amount of insulation you choose will determine the energy savings you can expect. Generally, installing insulation can reduce energy loss from your home by up to 50%, which is a significant saving.
Depending on the type of insulation you choose, the energy savings can vary. For example, using reflective insulation can reduce radiant heat gain in the summer, while standard insulation can help reduce heat loss in the winter. The higher the R-value of the insulation, the more energy efficient it is.
When choosing insulation, you should also consider other factors such as the climate in your area and the type of roof you have. This will help you determine the best type of insulation for your home and the amount of energy savings you can expect.
In addition, you should also consider the cost of installation and the long-term benefits. In most cases, the initial cost of installation is offset by the energy savings over time. Therefore, the more energy efficient the insulation, the more money you will save in the long run.
Overall, insulating your loft/roof can be a great way to save energy and reduce your energy bills. The energy savings you can expect will largely depend on the type and amount of insulation you choose, as well as other factors such as your climate and roof type. With careful consideration, you can choose the best insulation for your home and enjoy significant energy savings for years to come.